Vintage Costume Jewelry Designers – Marks, Company History, Information and Research







 

A.L.L. Co.: 1922 – 1940s? (Unknown as to last date in business)


The trademark for A.L. Lindroth Company, North Attelboro, Mass.
since the 1940s. One item produced was a cameo pin believed to have been carved
out of sardonyx/carnelian with yellow gold metal accented with an applied granular
texture on the leaves (variegated with yellow, rose, and green gold filling) on
each side of the cameo. The pin is considered to be of the Edwardian era (English
kings named Edward) and designed for the very elite. Mark: “A.L.L.” on the catch.
Jewelry by this company is hard to find let alone little is know of the company
and it is surmised that the company went out of business in the 1940s.

ACCESSOCRAFT: 1930-1998


The Accessocraft Products Company, NY, was founded by Edgar Rodelheimer
and Theodore Steinman, and opened in 1930. The jewelry has been classified good
quality with unusual gothic designs and was highly popular in the 1960s having had
the Art Deco decorative look of the 1920s and 1930s Many items had a style typical
of the Renaissance, Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Rococo ornamentation. The unusual
stones used in the jewelry were set in antique gold-tones or bronzed metals. Many
of the 1930s pieces had a decidedly Art Deco look. The jewelry pieces were marked:
“Accessocraft”, “Plastigold” in September 1940, and “Feathergold” since Aug. 1945
(used for plastic jewelry including necklaces, bracelets, finger rings, earrings,
jewelry clips, brooches, lockets, beads, ornamental pins, hat and hair ornaments
made with precious or semi-precious metals, fancy buckles and jewelry initials)
that were plastic plated. The company ceased operations in 1998.

ADELE SIMPSON: 1944 – 1950s


Adele Smithline was born in 1903 and married Wesley William Simpson
in 1930. Through 1930, she had worked as a designer for Gershel’s, William Bass
firm, and Mary Lee Fashions. This last company allowed her to put her label on her
accessory designs of jewelry, perfume and lingerie. The Adele Simpson Company, a
clothing and accessories company, was found in 1944. It produced unusual designs,
chains, medallions, necklaces, broaches and earrings in sterling silver and gold
plated metal using clear and color pave rhinestones, faceted crystals and faux pearls.
Mark: Adele Simpson” in script. The jewelry line was limited in production and ceased
operations in the 1950s. Jewelry pieces are rarely found today.

ALBERTA: 1935 -Present


Alberta jewelry was made by the Albert Manufacturing Company,
Providence, RI, a jewelry company founded by Albert Weiner in 1935. The jewelry
produced included designed dress clips and jewelry novelties with the use of faux
pearls. Mark: “alberta” in cursive. Alberta jewelry is still being produced today.

ALBION: 1935-Present

Albion jewelry was produced by Albion Jewelers, Chicago, IL starting
in 1935. They made costume jewelry of base metals and plated precious metals. Marked:
“A”, “Albion”, and “Contessa” of pins, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets made of
base plated metals since May 1955. Not all Albion jewelry pieces are marked.

ALICE: Early 1950s -?

Alice jewelry was produced by Alice Jewelry Company of Providence,
RI since 1950. The company produced earrings, broaches, pins, anklets, pendants,
bracelets and necklaces and specialized in high end gold plated enamel jewelry some
with tiny faux pearls. Mark: “Alice ” in script, “Feather Touch” for earrings since
Feb. 1955. The jewelry is relatively rare.

ALICE CAVINESS: (SEE
CAVINESS): 1945 – 2000

Alice Caviness, a jewelry designer, started her business in 1945
creating jewelry in sterling vermeil, enamels, using cultured pearls, many sizes
of color and clear rhinestones, hand carved ivory, and imitation color stones and
beads. Alice was involved in every step of designing, production and sales of her
jewelry. She acquired two designers, Camille Ketronzio and Lois Steever. The jewelry
produced was of the highest quality and most unusual materials, design and construction
with quality open and closed-back foiled and unfoiled stones. The pieces contained
imported rhinestones and beads of striking colors, some with bold color combinations,
layered materials, and cross motif that were sold in high-end boutiques. Alice retired
in 1970 and died in 1983. Her partner, Lois Steever continued the jewelry production
until 2000. Some of the jewelry was manufactured in West Germany. Mark: “ALICE CAVINESS”
in block letters on an oval tag that is soldered on the back of the jewelry piece,
“CAVINESS”, and “ALICE CAVINESS STERLING SILVER” IN 1945 – 2000. The Alice Caviness
jewelry pieces are hard to find.

AMCO: 1919 – Late 1970’s

A. Micallef & Co. Inc. was founded in 1919 in Providence, RI producing AMCO
costume jewelry. The company produced lines of costume jewelry with designs
resembling fine quality jewelry, bezel set in sterling silver, gold filled and
gold plated metals using rhinestones and other imitation stones, simulated
gemstones and cultured and faux pearls. Their jewelry, elegant and classic in
designs of necklaces, bracelets, earrings, cameo brooches, pendants and rings,
has the quality of Krementz with finishes not wearing off and said to have held
up through the years. Marks: “STERLING AMCO“, “1/20 12K Gold Filled AMCO“, “20
12K G.F. AMCO”, “AMCO 14K GF”. AMCO costume jewelry has never been cheap and is
sought after by collectors. The A. Micallef company ceased operations in the
late 1970’s.

ANDERSEN, DAVID: 1876
– Present

David Andersen founded his workshop in 1876 in Oslo, Norway,
the Viking mythol., and now, after 125 years, has gifted the entire world, done
by generations of skilled craftsmen, with some of the most exquisite enamel jewelry
and tableware accessaries of silver and gold. The enameling comes in many colors
and is applied over sterling (also marked with silver content) along with Norway,
the country. All the jewelry is marked on the back with either the initials “D-A
NORWAY STERLING” and sometimes the full name “DAVID ANDERSEN NORWAY STERLING 925S”.
Natural patterns such as leaves, insects, flowers, and animals are repeated in the
jewelry pieces. Leading designers are Bjorn Sgurd Oster, Synnove Korssjoen and Konrad
Mehus. A common practice of Norwegian families is to hand down a cherished David
Anderson jewelry piece (necklace or bracelet) to a family member. Quality of a jewelry
piece is determined by the durability of the enamel. The David Anderson enameled
pins, earrings, rings, and necklaces are still made today. Because of the Dragon
style of the 1890s and the Art Nouveau designs, the jewelry pieces have been demanding
higher prices.

ANN HAND: 1988 – PRESENT

Ann Hand founded Ann Hand LLC, one of the most distinctive and prominent jewelry
design firms in Washington, DC in 1988. Ann Hand’s firm has been servicing U.S.
government service personnel with pins including several First Ladies, Cabinet
members, Senators, Congresswomen, and Ambassadors who also have worn her
signature pin of “The Liberty Eagle”. Her jewelry designs include: The Great
Seal pin, letter opener and money clip, Partners in Peace pins and earrings,
Remembering Noble American pins and earrings, Justice pins, Federal Eagle pins
and earrings, Bridal Collection Jewelry and Gifts, Sterling Silver pieces for
Baby, Power Perfumes, Eagle Scarves, Signed pieces on cufflinks, necklaces,
bracelets, earrings, pins, scarves, picture frames, enamel boxes, and purses.
Some of her artwork designs contain rubies, sapphires, diamonds and savorites in
18K gold metal. Ann Hand also designs jewelry with black and white pearl (faux
South Sea Pearls) and rhinestones, the Liberty Eagle in earrings, necklaces,
brooches, and lapel pins, Flags including those honoring Americans, cufflinks,
necklaces, bracelets and specialty pins, Clinton Library Seal pins, Washington
Landmark pins, brooches for all Armed Services, the Naval Academy, West Point
etc. Her jewelry can be worn for day and evening wear.

Ann Hand’s catalog appears on her internet site and at her Washington, DC salon.
Mark: New items are obtained in a pouch with print: Ann Hand Washington, D.C.
The Jewelry is Marked: “Ann Hand” and “AH”. Her jewelry designs are produced in
the U.S.A. and the business is still operating in 2007.

 

ANN-VEIN: 1950 to Present


The Ann-Vein Company was founded by Ann Vein in Atlanta, GA in
1950. Mark: “Ann-Vein”.

ANNE KLEIN: 1968 –
Present

Anne Klein, a fashion and jewelry designer, who previously worked
for Hattie Carnegie, established her own business, the Anne Klein & Co., for her
own line of clothing and accessories in 1968. The costume jewelry produced contained
designs in colored Lucite stones with gold plated or brush gold-tone metal base
and enameling with the use of simulated pearls, sapphires, and turquoise stones
and rhinestones. Mark “A.K.” or “Ann Klein” tag, “ANNE KLEIN” in a square box. Anne
Klein died in 1974. After her death in 1974, the design of her jewelry was done
by Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio. Since 1981, the jewelry has been manufactured
by Swank, Inc. using the Anne Klein lion logo. The Anne Klein jewelry along with
her fashionable clothing and accessories for women is sold at Saks 5th
Ave., Bloomingdale’s, and Neiman Marcus to name a few.

ANSON: 1938 – Present

Olaf Anderson emigrated to the U.S.A. from Sweden in 1929 and founded, as
president and treasurer, in 1938, the Anderson Tool & Die Co. of Providence, RI
making tools and dies for the jewelry manufacturing business up until WWII
(1941) when the machinery was converted into milling machines making war
production work. After the war, in 1945, when the war contracts were completed,
the company started manufacturing men’s jewelry that included a new type of a
collar holder and a complete line of men’s jewelry, cuff links, identification
bracelets, tie clips, stick pins, tie tacs, tie chains, collar holders, key
devices and money clips comprised of sterling silver, gold and silver filled
metal bases. The company changed its name in 1948 to Anson Inc.

In 1967, along with the men’s jewelry lines, women’s jewelry of stick pins,
brooches/pins and silver beads were added to the manufacturing output that used
rhodium, bronze and pewter along with the sterling silver, gold and silver
filled base metals. The Tiffany Company sold Anson jewelry in their department
stores.

In October 1983, Anson Inc. declared bankruptcy, emerged from a Chapter 11
reorganization and then was foreclosed on by Fleet (Fleet National Bank & Fleet
Credit Corporation) who sold its assets (the operating assets and the entire
inventory of Anson Inc. enabling C & J to continue the identical product lines
without interruption) to C & J Jewelry in a private sale that did not include
the sale information to Tiffany who was its most important retail distributor of
Anson jewelry. Marks: “ANSON, Pat. Pend.”, “ANSON”. “ANSON, 12 KT GF”, “ANSON,
Sterling Silver”, “Anson” in script, “ANSON, Pewter”. “ANSON, Brass”, “ANSON,
Rhodium”, “ANSON, 22K GF”.

With over 50 years of experience behind it, the Anson’s jewelry embodies all the
quality and craftsmanship that one expects from one of the industry’s leading
U.S. manufacturers with its expertise and stringent quality control that meets
and exceeds expectations for timeless, classical design quality and
functionality with lifetime warranty on their costume jewelry produced insuring
complete customer satisfaction. C & J Jeweler is still carrying the Anson’s
trademark on the costume jewelry, and, continues today, in 2005, to manufacturer
the same jewelry products at the original site. It continues to service Anson’s
principle customer, Tiffany, and its other customers. The company has since
branched out and added additional costume jewelry principally men’s sportsman
pendants, charms, money clips, key rings, tie tacs, cuff links, collar holders,
tie clips to the Anson lines. The product lines of baby jewelry and women’s
bridal brooches/pins, stick pins, and silver beads are an insignificant portion
of the products produced with the Anson name today. Anson jewelry is sold on the
internet by Anson Jewelry, and R. Entrerprises, Jewelry for the Sportsman, and
Personalized Engraved Anson Jewelry.

ART: Mid 1940s – LATE
1970s

ART jewelry was produced by ART MODE JEWELRY CREATIONS, INC.
The company made fine costume jewelry from the mid 1940s until the 1970s. The jewelry
made had variety, unusual designs, usually with a Victorian or Art Deco style with
glued in clear and multi-colored rhinestones and simulated pearls done in antique
gold-tone metals. The company had commonly used unusual color combinations of high
quality rhinestones and cabochons that were set in ornate metal work or filigree.
The jewelry produced was similar in style to those produced by Florenza and was
also comparable in quality and variety to that of Hollycraft. The medium to high
quality jewelry pieces include figural items and Victorian pieces in many different
styles. Marked: “ART in a square with a copyright symbol”. ART jewelry is becoming
very collectible and the quality pieces with unusual designs, multicolor stones,
figural pins and pave set pieces are the favorites and are expected to rise in value.
The company ceased operations in the late 1970s.

ASCH GROSSBARDT JEWELRY: 1800s –
Present

For over 2 centuries, the Asch and Grossbardt families under the cofounders
Larry Asch and Eric Grossbardt with the establishment of Asch/Grossbardt Inc.,
New York have produced fine jewelry and their collection of jewelry is known
throughout the world. The company is recognized as being the foremost and
premier manufacturer of fine inlayed gold jewelry with the original and
copyrighted design pieces sold exclusively in partnership with authorized retail
jewelry stores, fine stores that are upscale retailers. A list of stores in the
USA, Europe, Japan, and the Caribbean selling Asch Grossbardt jewelry is listed
on their internet site: aschgrossbardt.com.

With superb craftsmanship, each piece of Asch Grossbardt jewelry is artistically
designed that transforms spectacular gemstones that are hand-cut and hand-set
into seamless beautiful patterns in fine inlayed gold and sterling silver
resembling the stained glass windows of a glorious European cathedral. After the
stones are set in place, they are lapped on a wheel until smooth so that one
cannot feel or see where one stone ends and another begins producing jewelry
pieces that are extremely durable and are guaranteed to withstand everyday wear.
The 14k gold or 18k gold or sterling silver is inlayed with hand-cut quality
gemstones compounded to include black onyx, natural red coral, banded malachite,
red jasper, sugilite (reddish, purple color stone discovered in 1970 from
Africa), lapis lazuli, turquoise, diamonds and Australian opal and white
mother-of-pearl topped with enamel.

The outside or inside jewelry piece may have white full cut .025 carat diamonds
in white or bright yellow 14k gold metal. If newly purchased, a pouch will be
enclosed. Mark: “Around outside of circle Asch/Grossbardt, inside circle AG”, “c
in a circle for copyright, A/G,14k”, tag reads: “AG, Asch/Grossbardt” Asch
Grossbardt was the leading designer of the company.

In May of 2001. Eric Grossbardt became the sole owner of Asch/Grossbardt Inc.
when the cofounder, Larry Asch retired after more than 50 years in the jewelry
industry.

Asch/Grossbardt jewelry, because of the unique quality, breath-taking color and
meticulous craftsmanship, is referred to, on their internet site,
aschgrossbardt.com, as being “on the short list of the most-coveted collections
for true connoisseurs of fine jewelry“. Each jewelry piece is considered a work
of art, is highly priced and sought after, is outstanding and beautiful to see
and to wear, and is made in the U.S.A.

AUSTRIA JEWELRY: 1730 – Present

Austria’s crystal glass was produced by a technique of applying lead to the back
of glass to enhance the brilliance and sparkle. The inventor was George Frederic
Strass, a Parisian, in the year 1730. He became so well known that he was
appointed a prominent jeweler position for the King of France in 1734 and the
Strass Crystal Stone bears his name.

Rhinestones, also known as crystals, have been around for centuries being cut
and finished by hand which was a very timely process. The Swarovski Company was
founded by Daniel Swarovski in Watten, Austria (in the Tyrolean Alps) in 1862.
In 1891, Austrian Daniel Swarovski revolutionized the jewelry industry by
creating a glass cutting machine which cut faceted glass that created such
dazzle and brilliance to the glass. This glass outshined anything on the market
at that time in history. Daniel Swarovski’s creation for rhinestones was made
for speedy production and the process produced magnificent finished stones. This
process of producing the cut glass rhinestones or crystals, sometimes has a
foiled and flat backing with the use of lead content to enhance the sparkle and
brilliance which is still being used today worldwide.

Swarovski rhinestones and crystals are consider the “Top of the Line” and today,
the Swarovksi Corporation is known to produce the world’s finest crystal stones
with different types being produced by Korean, Czech, Acrylic and Plastic that
are in no way a comparison to the sparkle and brilliance of the Swarovski
stones. The emphasis on the high lead content causes the brilliant sharp color
to be reflected back to the viewer in a magnificent display of prismatic color.

TSwarovski company also perfected a surface coating on the crystals called
Aurora Borealis that seems to explode with color even without bright light
passing through them. Coloring agents of red, blue, green, violet etc. have been
added to the crystals making the colors dance out of the crystals quickly at
different viewing angles.

Since 1900, costume jewelry was being produced in Austria with factories
founded, one in Tyrol (in the Tyrolean Alps) producing costume jewelry of all
kinds, the quality of which is still today unique in the whole wide world. After
the year 1915, a number of costume jewelry producers settled in Austria. Through
their technical skills combined with Austrian taste, and sense for art, the
costume jewelry production reached its full bloom, so that the fame of Austrian
costume jewelry was established all over the world. The common jewelry found
today from Austria consists of rhinestone and crystal made of glass, Austrian
glass beads, some with enameled work. Most of the quality of the jewelry
produced is above average, made with top quality rhinestones and crystals. It is
marked “Made in Austria” or “Austria”.

The United States imports jewelry from Austria. Austria is a major source of
rhinestones and crystals with the Swarovski Corporation being one of the biggest
suppliers.

Austria also produces the finest selection of gold, silver, and platinum jewelry
using precious gemstones, semi-precious gems, multi-sized and colored pearls,
crystals and rhinestones, creations from unexpected materials, and some
contemporary jewelry that is intricate and delicately creative. The jewelry is
striking, elegant and different and is found in small, exclusive and elegant
boutiques in Austria. The cost of a piece of Austrian jewelry can be inexpensive
or outrageous depending on its content.

 

AVON: 1886 – Present

Avon was founded by D.H. McConnell, Sr. in 1886 as the California Perfume
Company in New York. In 1939, the company changed its name to Avon Products,
Inc. producing fragrances, make-up, skincare, and bath/body products. In 1971,
Avon started producing many lines of jewelry including figurals, perfume-holding
pins, watches, and standard items of costume jewelry, necklaces, brooches,
bracelets, earrings, and rings with the quality of these pieces ranging from
cheaply-made to very good and were produced in large quantities. It is said that
the jewelry made varies in quality from cheaply made to interesting pieces that
compare to the better Sarah Coventry and the average Coro jewelry. The Avon
products including low cost, high quality American costume jewelry was sold
directly to the American consumer by Avon representatives going from door to
door or scheduling house parties. The company did not make their own jewelry but
other firms manufactured and designed their product lines. The Krementz Co. was
one of the manufactures.

A list of some of the designers who have sold and are selling costume jewelry on
AVON are: Seymour M. Kent, Louis Feraud, Kenneth Jay Lane, Celia Sebiri, Jose’
Maria Barrera, Shaill Jhevari, Elizabeth Taylor, Coreen Simpson, Luke Razza,
Akoya Culture Pearls, Felicia, Marley Simon, Nicky Butler, R.J. Graziano, Susan
Lucci, Technibond, Anne’s Eye for Annie Gilbar, Erickson B for Karen and Eric
Erickson, Maharaja Collection and Adrienne. AVON jewelry is marked: “Name of
designer, made for AVON”.

In 1998, Avon closed its jewelry plants in Puerto Rico and the Dominican
Republic. Now, in 2006, one of the Avon jewelry plants has closed in San
Sebastian, Spain (had opened in 1982) due to the company’s restructuring .
Avon’s sales and distribution network in Spain will not be affected. The reason
given was that the consumers now seek more complex designs, and the operating
costs have risen. Avon will now acquire its products from Asia. AVON jewelry is
still sold through their representatives, is said to not be particularly
valuable, but is of interest to those who collect Avon memorabilia. AVON is
still selling costume jewelry today, in 2006, with many designer pieces listed
and sold on its internet site “Avon-The Official Site”, on eBay and on Avon
Jewelry Sites on TV listed on the internet.

Avon Jewelry Plant To Close: Caribbean from AllBusiness

 

AVON OF BELLEVILLE: 1945 – 1971 (Not
Affiliated with The Avon Perfume Co. or the Avon Products Inc.)

The Avon of Belleville Jewelry Company was founded by Abe Mazer in 1945 in
Ontario, Canada with the trademark registered as “AVON” in capital block
letters. The company’s ownership changed from Abe Mazer to Avon Canada Ltd in
1971 because of a trademark infringement due to the fact that the Avon Perfume
Co. took offense to the name “Avon of Belleville” It is also noted that the Avon
Perfume Co. started introducing fashion jewelry in the year 1971. It has also
been said that their is no comparison to the better quality, construction and
stone selection of the Avon of Belleville jewelry pieces produced from 1945 to
1971 to those of the Avon Perfume Co. produced from 1971 to 2006.

Avon of Belleville jewelry pieces including necklaces, bracelets, brooches, and
earrings that were beautifully designed and well made of gold tone, silver tone
or sterling silver base metals with faceted clear and colored rhinestones and
crystals of glass and simulated pearls claw set in the metal. Marcel Boucher had
worked with the Mazers in the 1930s and apparently continued his association
with them through Avon of Belleville for many of their jewelry pieces produced
have the Boucher characteristics in design, quality of construction and
selections of stones. Avon of Belleville jewelry was marked with design
inventory numbers. Mark: “AVON” in block upper case letters, or “Avon” in script
with a “four digit code number” and may or may not contain “CANADA” in block
letters, or “Avon” block letters found on earrings, or “STERLING AVON” in block
letters, or on a Hanging Tag: “Avon” in script, and “BELLEVILLE” in block
letters below the Avon name. The company ceased operations in 1971.

 

B. DAVID: 1945 – 1990


B. David Jewelry was founded in 1945 in Cincinnati, OH. The jewelry
is usually above average in design, quality and materials used. Usually signed “B.
David” in an oval frame, or “b. david” in a divided square, or “bd” diagonally used
or “B. DAVID” 1945 to present. The B. David Jewelry Company produced jewelry until
1990. Debra Moreland of Paris, France and now of Cincinnati, Ohio purchased only
the manufacturing facilities in 1993 and sells her jewelry to over 300 stores. Debra’s
speciality leans towards Bridal Cakes, Bridal Jewelry and Bridal Accessories. Now,
Debra’s jewelry and other sale items are marked: “Paris…”.

BANANA REPUBLIC: 1983 – Present

Gap, Inc. was founded by Don Fisher (now Chairman Emeritus) and his wife Doris
in 1969 in San Francisco, California.

Banana Republic was acquire by Gap, Inc. in 1983 at which time the brand had 2
stores and a safari motif. Banana Republic has now grown from its origin to an
empire in its own right and is now a well-known retailer of women and men’s mid
scale (not high-dollar, but far from discount) apparel stores with 450 located
in the U.S., Canada, and Japan. Today, Gap, Inc. is one of the world’s largest
specialty retailers with more than 3,000 stores and a revenue in 2005 at $16
million with brand names of The Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, and Forth &
Towne that employs more than 150,000 around the world.

Banana Republic’s jewelry designs are comprised of sterling silver, 18K over
sterling silver, silver-tone and gold-tone base metals with colored imitation
pearls, mother-of-pearl, sea shells, beads, and gemstones, and glass rhinestones
and crystals faceted and embedded in the metal.

Paul Pressler is not President of Gap, Inc. Banana Republic jewelry is said to
be an accessible luxury brand, and an affordable luxury for rich and middle
class women and men. Mark: Tagged: “Banana Republic”. Their jewelry designs,
accessories and apparel can also be found on the internet at Banana Republic.com
and publications of their product lines are seen in leading women and men’s
magazines.

Banana Republic is still in operation in 2006.

 

BARCLAY: 1911 – 1957


Barclay Jewelry Inc., of Providence, RI, originated as the New
England Glasswork Co. in 1911. It became Rice-Weiner Co. in 1938 with Alvin and
Robert Rice as owners. The jewelry pieces were hand-set, glued in, using multicolor
pastel rhinestones of various shapes and sizes to gold plated and silver filigree
metals. The company split in 1946 and was named Barclay Jewelers Inc. with the designer
Louis Mark using the Mark: “Barclay”, on a pallet, “Barclay/Art in Jewelry” used
since 1948, and “Peltanium” since 1953. Most pieces of jewelry were signed but they
were not marked the last few years of existence to 1957. The architectural structure
and workmanship of the earlier jewelry pieces was superior to the latter ones. Earlier
jewelry had heavier weight, glued without overflow, and thicker metal plating, The
jewelry is classified as of average quality compared to Coro and Lisner and similar
to Hollycraft in workmanship. Note: Rice-Weiner Co. was also relaunched in 1946
introducing 2 new lines, Jeray and American Beauty Pearls. The company ceased operations
in 1957. The multicolor rhinestone sets are a favorite with collectors

BARCLAY, MCCLELLAND: 1937 – 1943


McClelland Barclay, a well known illustrator, artist and sculptor,
formed McClelland Barclay Art Products Inc. of NY in 1937 producing jewelry using
his own designs. Before long, he expanded into designing jewelry for Rice-Weiner
in the 1930s to 1940s. The jewelry made was highly stylized as Art Deco using geometric
shaped stones, and high quality rhinestones in the jewelry designs. His jewelry
is well built using proven construction methods to create a sturdy base. Early Barclay
jewelry used the metal named “Vermeil”, a gold-tone wash over sterling silver. He
also used the man made synthetic gemstones that looked like the real sapphires,
rubies etc. These stones were comparable to the also used new plastic stones, Bakelite
and Lucite. The jewelry pieces were marked by his full name “McCelland Barclay”
except for individual pieces commissioned marked “Mac”, and “McCelland Barclay STERLING
SILVER”. McClelland Barclay was killed in action during WWII and the company ceased
operations in 1943, only 6 years after its formation. Jewelry by McCelland Barclay
is well constructed and said to be elegant and wonderful finds.

BARRY KIESELSTEIN-CORD or BARRY CORD:
Late 1970’s to Present

Barry Kieselstein-Cord, a jewelry designer, artist and a businessman was born in
1951 in New York City, NY and grew up there and in Long Island. His mother was
an illustrator, highly creative and a bit eccentric and nurtured the artist in
her son. His father was trained as an architect but spent most of his life in
the real-estate business.

The Barry Kieselstein-Cord Company is one of American’s largest owned fine
jewelry companies remaining true to Cord’s own personal artistic vision. His
company employs over 150 full time employees to carve, cast, file, solder,
granulate, clean, finish and polish Cord’s creations, In 1998, it has been said
that the company generated 50million in annual sales and, today, continues to
utilize old-world craftsmanship along with an intimate atmosphere of a family
business producing jewelry for the US and the international market. Cord alone,
inspects each work in progress and has the final say on workmanship and designer
pieces of jewelry. He explores any and all design possibilities. The Barry
Kieselstein-Cord company’s headquarters and studio occupies a floor in a large
building in the center of the garment district in New York (119 W. 40th St., New
York, NY) which is only a short distance from Cord’s walk-up apartment where he
started his business 27 years ago. The company also has a showroom in Dallas,
and boutiques in Aspen, Palm Beach, Berlin, Dusseldorf, and Zurich, two in Las
Vegas and one in Milan, Paris, and Moscow. His higher priced jewelry pieces are
also sold at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman Inc., and Saks Fifth Ave.
department stores throughout the US.

Cord has been a premier luxury designer and artist. He creates extraordinary
jewelry and accessories. His designs include primarily silver jewelry, gator
jewelry along with other fashion accessories, handbags, eyewear, luggage, belts,
watches, gloves, small leather goods and home furnishings, and these collections
are available for purchase throughout the US and Europe. Prices for his design
items range from $200 and upward. It is said that Barry Kieselstein-Cord creates
pieces of jewelry that are subtle, beautifully made, and are a wearable art.
They do not have a huge amount of precious gemstones but are sought after for
their workmanship and designs pleasing to the eye. Unlike some of the other
big-name jewelry designer, Cord’s company is known to insiders only for he
avoids overexposure. Cord is a private person, does not give out willingly
information on himself, his company and his designs.

Cord’s name, at birth was Barry Kieselstein, then changed to Barry Kieselstein-Cord
(Cord being part of his mother’s name) with the Kieselstein name known widely
because of his designs of mythical creatures with unique finishes and his use of
green and yellow, silver and platinum along with his whimsical motifs that
include ducks, alligators, toads, dogs of all breeds, bats, and the famous T-rex
series. His Women of the World collection features famous women throughout
history carved in relief on bracelets, necklaces, rings, pendants, and earrings.
Each pieces of jewelry that Cord meticulously designs and produces is signed,
dated, and copyrighted in his studio. Mark: Embedded in the metal: ”C in a
circle for copyright, B Kieselstein Cord, date, moon and star symbols, 925”, or
“C in a circle for copyright, BKC, date, moon and star symbols, 925” or “C in a
circle for copyright, Barry Kieselstein Cord, date, moon and star symbols, 14K”,
or “C in a circle for copyright, B Kieselstein Cord, date, moon and star
symbols, 18K or 750”, or “C in a circle, BARRY CORD FOR KIESELSTEIN CORD , moon
and star symbol, 925 14K and date”.

QVC.com, on the internet and QVC TV Network is selling some of Barry Cord’s
jewelry designs (it is a name he is hoping to also become recognized by). His
sterling silver pieces of jewelry sold here include the Kieselstein Cord Sport
Collection jewelry line that includes, sterling silver designs of rings,
pendants, cuffs, bracelets, necklaces and earrings with frogs, alligators,
flowers, Aesop‘s Fables (the tortoise and the Hare), fresh-water-pearls etc. The
Cow Girl Museum Collection and Hall of Fame, in Fort Worth, TX is another of his
jewelry design lines with super southwestern flair. QVC has listed a black
leather stopwatch, earrings, ring, and pendant of a Cow Girl etc. Mark: Embedded
in the metal, “C in a circle for copyright B Kieselstein Cord, date, moon and
star symbol, 925”, or “C in a circle for copyright, B Kieselstein Cord Sport
Collection, moon and star symbol, 14K/925”, with “made in Thailand” also on some
of these jewelry pieces on QVC.

Barry Cord’s daughter is BKC’s spokeswoman for the collection of sport jewelry
on QVC. The company, Barry Kieselstein-Cord, under the direction of Barry, is
designing and manufacturing fine jewelry and costume jewelry pieces who’s prices
are from less than $100 to a high of thousands of dollars (5 digits) depending
on the metal content, Sterling Silver, 14K, 18K and platinum, gemstone/diamond,
and the extraordinary design. Barry Cord Kieselstein Cord Store, as he now wants
it to be listed as, has stated the following: “Artists have to be
impressionable, they have to translate feeling into three dimensional shape and
form in a way that hasn’t been done before.” His designs are embraced as high
fashion and his earlier pieces are sought after by collectors. Barry Kieselstein
Cord has won several fashion designer awards and his creations are part of the
collections of the Louvre in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York
and the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston.

 

BASTIAN JEWELRY: 1895 – Present

The Bastian Company was founded in Rochester, NY in 1895 and was incorporated as
the Bastian Brothers Company initiating operating as a jewelry store that was
recognized for its quality, craftsmanship and integrity in the production of
emblematic jewelry , lapel pins, medallions, belt buckles, paper weighs,
paperweights, security-police-firemen badges and insignias, automotive
decorative emblems, class and fraternity jewelry, novelties, rings, bar pins
scarf pins and earrings. The company became a Union Shop and expanded its sales
and marketing efforts to cover distributors in the entire U.S. and today, also
has numerous distributors outside the U.S. including Canada.

The Bastian jewelry company, instills in their employees the need for high
standards and quality craftsmanship demanding, in each step of the production of
a product, from the die cutter, enameling, polishing, finishing and plating
procedures, that their employees build integrity and quality into the products
produced. Mark: “backward B and forward B (1909-1943)”,“B.B. CO”, and “Bastian
10K”

The Bastian Bros. Co. publishes the following catalogs: Bastian Bros. Co.
Catalogs, School Insignia Catalogs, and Jewelry New York (State) Rochester
Catalogs. Their internet site indicates that the products are available through
distributors. The Bastian Co. has listed their products as: badges, buckles,
coasters, coins, key tags, Holiday ornaments, custom lapel pins, patriotic lapel
pins, medallions, security ID badge lapel pins, pin holders, stock firefighter
theme products and stock union theme products. The company has acquired CRDL
Inc., a company that invented and patented magnetic sculptures and today offers
more than 300 designs in that product line. The Bastian Brothers Company is
still in business in 2007.

 

BEAU OR BEAUCRAFT: 1947 – September 2004



Beaucraft Inc. began operations and produced “Beau” and “Beaucraft” jewelry in
Providence, RI from 1947. The company was one of the leading producers of
beautiful and unique fine sterling silver jewelry ever made for over half a
century. The jewelry designs had originality, versatility, and impeccable
craftsmanship. Vintage Beaucraft jewelry pieces are now considered highly
collectible and in the same class of jewelry as Coro. Their latest designs took
on a new approach by contrasting brushed and high polished sterling silver
finishes, creating a completely original look that combines classic style with
modern fashion. The jewelry designs include fish and seahorses in sterling
silver metal. Mark: “Beaucraft” (In Sterling), “Beau B Sterling”, “B” with
“Ster” or “Sterling”, and “Beau Sterling”. Beaucraft also made 14k jewelry.

In September 2004, after 57 years in the business, Beaucraft Inc. retired from
the jewelry business and the entire inventory was put on the auction block with
Amsco Ltd. purchasing the bulk of its inventory that is being offered to the
public at “well-below-discount prices“, “OVER THREE QUARTERS OF A MILLION
DOLLARS WORTH OF FINE BEAUCRAFT STERLING SILVER JEWELRY“. Check the internet:
AmscoOnline.com, the Amsco on-line retail store for NEW discount jewelry of
Beaucraft. Amsco Ltd., for more than twenty years, has been supplying quality
jewelry to the wholesale jewelry and catalog industry and are now able to offer
this merchandise, as well as other discount merchandise, direct to the public at
a fraction of the cost found elsewhere. Other jewelry for sale includes: Charter
Club, One of a Kind (and Salesman’s Samples used to display merchandise to the
buyers at Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, and Saks Fifth Ave.), Religious, Nature,
Awareness, Semi-Precious, Hearts, Angels, Holiday, and Patriotic.

BELLINI FOR FORMART: 1960s – 1970s, and Presently


Bellini jewelry was produced by the Formart Corporation located at 39 W. 38th
St., New York City. The company designed excellent quality fashion jewelry
during the 1960s and 1970s of gold-tone, silver-tone, and rhodium plated metals
encrusted and set pave style in clear, aqua, pink sapphire and amethyst color
unfoiled glass stones, clear and color rhinestones, and simulated pearls
producing earrings, pins, necklaces, and bracelets. Bellini jewelry had the look
of Eisenberg or Weiss in design. The Bellini jewelry was and is sold in
department stores, specialty stores, boutiques, and mass merchants with pricing
moderate to better.

Today, the Formart Corporation is still in business, at its same location in NY
producing Bellini Collections of jewelry along with other merchandise lines to
include watches, sunglasses, pill boxes, picture frames, candles, gift items,
hair ornaments, handbags, sportswear, and hair wear including hats and caps.
Mark: “BELLINI”, “BELLINI BY FORMART”, and “BELLINI COLLECTIONS”.

BEN-AMUN: 1977 – Present

The Ben-Amun jewelry is designed and created by Isaac Manevitz, a native
Egyptian, and the son of a fabled jeweler for Egypt’s royal family. The Ben-Amun
Company is named after the designer’s eldest son (Ben) and the King of Egypt
whose name was Tutankhamun (Amun).

Isaac Manevitz has been designing jewelry for over 30 years and his showroom,
which is now open to the public, is located adjacent to the Manhattan factory in
which all of the Ben-Amun creations are put together under the watchful eye of
its creator.

Manevitz’s Ben-Amun jewelry designs incorporate the working with fine, unusual
materials creating original and unique designs in earrings, bracelets (including
charm), necklaces, pins and belts. The materials used include base metals of 14k
and 24k gold plating, silver, brass and pewter plating, Italian resin stones and
beads, Lucite, glass beads, stones and pearls, Swarovski and Austrian crystals,
semi precious stones including moonstones and coral, and wood fabric wrap, with
the final touch of hand painted enamel. Manevitz’s designs have established a
tradition of creating distinctive jewelry that combines an unexpected mix of the
finest materials that are favorite among discriminating women of all ages. Mark:
Ben-Amun.

Ben-Amun is classified as high end jewelry that can be seen at Bloomingdales,
Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom’s. and can also be found in
magazines including Cosmopolitan, Flare, People, Inside, Fashion, Vogue, Bazaar,
Glamour and Latino to name a few. The jewelry is a favorite on the runway for
the designer Isaac Manevitz has worked with numerous designers, including Calvin
Klein, Donna Karan, and Ralph Lauren to accessorize fashion shows each season.

You will find 2 internet sites: Ben-Amun Jewelry by Isaac Manevitz and Ben-Amun
Jewelry to view his jewelry collections and to also make an appointment to visit
the showroom in Manhattan.

 

BERGERE: 1947 – 1979


Bergere jewelry was produced by L. Erbert & Pohls Inc. NY in
1947. The high-quality designed jewelry produced consisted of necklaces, bracelets,
pins, clips and earrings containing faux pearls and stones on gold plated, rhodium,
and brass metals. The jewelry was sold in stores such as Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor,
and Marshall Fields. Mark: “bergere” with a dash above the 2nd e of the
name in 1947 and “Bergere” in script. The company ceased operations in 1979.

BLISS COMPANY: (See Napier for additional information)


The E.A. Bliss Company NY of 1878 became Bliss/Napier in 1915.
Mark “M. Co. inside a large “B” on jewelry in 1908.

BLOCK, FRED A.: 1940s -1947


Fred A. Block jewelry was made in the 1940s with enamels, gold
metals , clear plastics and rhinestones. Mark: “FRED A. BLOCK JEWELRY” on a rectangle
plate. The Fred A. Block company is also known to have produced a limited amount
of jelly belly type jewelry pins. The company ceased operations in 1949.

BOB MACKIE: 2000 – Present

Bob Mackie was born Robert Gordon Mackie in 1940 in Monterey Park, CA and was
educated at the Chouinard Art Institute in fashion designing. After graduation,
he worked for Jean Louis as a member of the famed Edith Head design team. He
began creating dresses and gowns for Carol Burnett on her TV Show and Diana Ross
on Broadway.

Bob Mackie, in 1982 launched his own first ready-to-wear collection of women‘s
clothing and started building his reputation by dressing some of the most famous
stars in entertainment, Cher, Madonna, and Bette Midler in gowns and dresses.

In the 1980, Bob Mackie added a line of jewelry that was produced by Marjorie
Brandt & Company NY under a license agreement with the design work done by David
Salvatore. His costume jewelry is made up of aurora borealis, clear rhinestones
and crystals, colored beads that are set into silvertone and goldtone metal
base. The designs and all styles of Mackie jewelry is approved by Bob Mackie. He
also designed and manufactured knitwear, eveningwear, suits, a fragrance,
handbags, scarves, watches and stationery under his name. In 1990, Mackie began
designing for Mattel, the Barbie doll, under his name and continued this
tradition, again, this year in 2005. In 1999, he launched his career in costume
design, with his made-to-order couture collection. Besides Mackie’s costume
jewelry, David Salvatore designs and creates accessories including sun glasses,
hair accessories and small leather goods that are sold in department stores and
freestanding Salvatore stores. Mark: “Bob Mackie” in script.

Bob Mackie, through the Marjorie Brandt & Company NY, is planning in August to
come out with a new fashion jewelry collection. Mackie’s originally designed
dresses costing $12,000 and expensive gown selling upwards to $100,000 dressing
Cher, Carol Burnett, Angela Lansbury, Madonna, Barbra Streisand and Barbie. Not
everyone could afford the price tags, therefore, Mackie has now developed an
affordable, ready-to-wear line that includes jewelry, eyewear, watches, scarfs,
and menswear items that puts the items in the affordable luxury category, for
those who want stylish items at a price they can afford. His costume jewelry and
other accessories are sold on the internet QVC.com and on the QVC TV Network
Show which indicates that his items listed for sale are made in Thailand or
China or the Czech Republic.


BOGOFF: 1946 – 1970s

Henry Bogoff, the designer, emigrated from Warsaw, Poland in
1908 and started the Bogoff Company of Chicago in 1946 after having worked for the
Spear Novelty Company. Bogoff jewelry is elegant and fashionable in design, with
sophisticated lines, that demonstrates fine workmanship and imitates fine jewelry.
The jewelry was made in limited quantities, heavily and very well constructed with
above average Swarovski clear and colored rhinestones, molded glass stones and faux
pearls set in precious metals of rhodium and silver and gold plated. Mark: “Jewels
of BOGOFF” and “BOGOFF”. The jewelry was sold at affluent stores. The company also
designed jewelry for other companies including Sears & Roebuck, Zales, Marshall
Fields, and Saks 5th Ave. It is said that they designed jewelry for the
elegant lady who was on a budget. Bogoff jewelry was made in small quantities. The
Bogoff Company went out of business in the 1970s after approximately 24 years that
presented the public with sophisticated lines of designs in costume jewelry featuring
paved rhinestones and lovely pastel Swarovski quality rhinestones. Collectors favor
colored rhinestones for necklaces, bracelets and earrings. The pins are not as widely
sought after.

BOUCHER, MARCEL: 1937 – Present (Now D’Orlan Industries of Canada)


Marcel Boucher, a jewelry designer, established the Marcel Boucher
and Cie Company NY in 1937 where he produced creative and imaginative designed metalwork
jewelry with high quality rhinestones. He was born in France and trained as an apprentice
to Cartier in France and emigrated to the U.S. in the early 1920s. During the early
1930s, he designed jewelry for the Mazer Brothers in New York. Gold plating enamel
was used with 3-dimensional designs using the 4 precious stone colors on jewelry
of exotic birds, insects, and flowers that were also marked the design numbers of
3 or 4 digits into the astermolds. Imitation diamond (beautiful rhinestones), ruby,
sapphire and emerald stones, and simulated pearls were used in the jewelry. Most
Boucher jewelry is signed in metal. Mark: “Marboux with a copyright symbol” in 1938
– 1960s, “MB with a helmet icon” in 1940, and “Boucher with a copyright symbol with
most jewelry pieces also containing a number” in 1950, “”EARRITE” for earrings since
1950, and later, his own name “Marcel Boucher”. Boucher’s jewelry reflects the classical
tradition with excellent metalwork, highly creative and imaginative designs using
excellent rhinestones resembling gemstones that can be mistaken for the real thing.
Marcel died in 1966 and was succeeded by his wife Sandra, who previously had worked
for Tiffany, and, who had been working with him as a designer, took over the operation
of the company that was now located in East Toronto, Canada. It is said that Marcel
Boucher was possibly the greatest designer and producer of costume jewelry in America
in the 1930s through 1971 and his jewelry pieces are prized for their baguettes
and exciting colored stones. Boucher’s jewelry pieces have maintained excellent
quality and workmanship. The 1940 Parisianna Mexican Silver jewelry line is highly
prized and sought after by collectors. Also very collectible is the jewelry group
of “Exotic Birds”. In 1979, the company was sold to D’Orlan Industries of Toronto,
Canada. The workmanship and details on the jewelry now being produced from the Boucher
molds by D’Orlan is of high quality but does not measure up to the older pieces
produced by Marcel Boucher. The jewelry pieces have a design inventory number and
are now signed “d’Orlan”.

BRIGHTON: 1966 – Present


The Brighton product line is a division of Leegin Creative Leather Products that
was founded in 1966 by Lee and Ginny Leegin of California. In its infancy of
1966, the business operated out of a warehouse in Redondo Beach and produced
leather belts, hand bags, and sandals.

In 1972, Jerry Kohl took over the company introducing many new designs in
leather consisting of western belts, unique fashions, cowhide belts, hat bands
etc. and the Brighton line was formed.

Only 2 years later, the Brighton line branched out and produced jewelry,
footwear, eyewear, watches, and accessories and foods for the home and is now
carrying wallets, sunglasses, lipstick and fragrances. The collection also
included men’s belts, wallets, watches and other leather accessories along with
women’s jewelry of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pendants, brooches/pins and
ankle bracelets.

Brighton jewelry is designed mostly of silver metal that is etched or embedded
with circular, oval and oblong shaped links and hearts, some faceted Swarovski
crystals, imitation stones of bright colors of turquoise blue, lavender purple,
hot pink, orange, green and amber accents or enamel charm links in bright colors
of hearts, flowers, leaves, and swirls.

Brighton collections are all a unique original design and accessories lines
coordinate to create a match. It now employs more than 600 people in a
technologically advanced plant with components for some of the products
manufactured in the countries of France, Italy, Spain, China, Taiwan, Korea and
Japan. Their products are available in nearly 6,000 specialty stores nationwide
and 50 All-Brighton stores from coast to coast. Jerry Kohl, president and owner
of Brighton’s and Leegin Creative Leather Products requires stores carrying
their product lines to offer excellent customer service.

Today, you can find over 150 Brighton outlets across the United States, and more
than 6,000 stores in the U.S. sell Brighton products and serves customers
worldwide. Brighton is known as an industry leader recognized for their
innovative styling, outstanding workmanship and the use of high-quality
materials. The Brighton company designers are constantly on the lookout for new
inspirations. It continues to surprise industry insiders with its uniquely
ornamented bags, exotic leathers, and solid products. It has also helped its
parent company, Leegin, grow to a large size that employs more than 500 people.
Brighton marks: “B” logo for the Brighton signature at the closure, heart shaped
lobster claw clasp and tiny “B” in the heart on the end of a necklace, bracelet,
earrings, pendants, and brooches/pins. Brighton is still in business today in
2006.

 

BSK: Approximately 1948 – Early 1970s.


The initials BSK stand for the owners: B for Benny Steinberg,
S for Hy Sloritt and K for a Mr. Kaslo. The New York jewelry company was in business
approximately from 1946 to the early 1970s. The jewelry is of average quality, some
with interesting and original designs with gold plating, seed pearls and rhinestones.
Mark: B.S.K. with a copyright symbol”. BSK jewelry is not rare. We are seeing an
abundance of it on the market. It normally sells at low to middle price ranges.
The company ceased operations in the early 1970s. Very little is known about the
company.

BUTLER & WILSON: Early 1970’s – Present

In the early 1970’s, two British Antique jewelers and designers, Nicky Butler
and Simon Wilson, established a partnership and company called Butler & Wilson.
Both of these men began as Antique Dealers in jewelry. Nicky Butler and Simon
Wilson headed the British Costume Jewelry Design House at first collecting
elegant jewelry, and, then designed and produced their own costume jewelry
pieces made up of Austrian rhinestones and crystals, gemstones, and pearls which
were prong set, crystals tight in place into base gun metal, rhodium, polished
gold plated and silver plated metals. The jewelry designed and produced by
Butler and Wilson became sought after because of its global flair that had a
decidedly multi-cultural feel combining multiple gemstones, rhinestones,
crystals , faceted beads, and pearls with antique-style settings and other
unique finishes. Their jewelry designs have made them famous for they have many
jewelry pieces acquired by the rich and famous, desired by the London social
elite, sought after by Parisian couture designers, and now has captured the
hearts of Americans. Marked: “B & W”. The partnership broke up in the 1990’s
with Simon Wilson retaining the Butler and Wilson name. Since that time, Nicky
Butler , under his own name, has designed and manufactured costume jewelry.

Wilson and Butler were world leading designers that added magical touch to a
whole new range of hand whimsical animals to beautiful jewelry that has also
encrusted evening bags and belts using semi-precious stones, rose quartz,
agates, turquoise, opals, pearls, Austrian rhinestones and crystals. Their
jewelry has glamour and glitz which is very much in vogue, is of vintage
couture, modern Oriental, and Indian designs that provides the inspiration for
fashionable jewelry collections. It mixes traditional and modern creating
individual and original styles. Butler and Wilson stormed the fashion world in
the 1980’s by creating costume jewelry that helped put fashion jewelry back in
demand at a reasonable price.

Co-founder, Simon Wilson mixes the traditional and modern in order to create an
individual, original style to his jewelry designs. Marked: “B & W” after the
original founders, Nicky Butler and Simon Wilson. Today, Butler & Wilson has two
prestigious stores located in London, England providing fabulous collections of
jewelry, accessories, and apparel including bracelets, earrings, brooches/pins,
necklaces, hair clips, bags, wallets, watches, charm bracelets, and bridal gift
ideas. The Butler and Wilson establishment sells items on their own internet
website, “Butler & Wilson“, and they also sell their creations on the internet –
“QVC“. QVC has indicated that “they are proud to showcase their sultry, sexy,
pieces, which comes to us straight from the pulsing heart of London’s West End”.

 BUTLER, NICKY: 1960’s – Present

Nicky Butler began his trade as an Antique Dealer in Jewelry in the late
1960’s. In the early 1970’s, he went into partnership with Simon Wilson in
London, calling their jewelry establishment Butler & Wilson. Nicky Butler and
Simon Wilson headed the British Costume Jewelry Design House at first collecting
elegant jewelry, and, then designed and produced their own costume jewelry
pieces made up of Austrian rhinestones and crystals, gemstones, and pearls which
were prong set, crystals tight in place into base gun metal, rhodium, polished
gold plated and silver plated metals. The jewelry designed and produced by
Butler and Wilson became sought after because of its global flair that had a
decidedly multi-cultural feel combining multiple gemstones, rhinestones,
crystals , faceted beads, and pearls with antique-style settings and other
unique finishes. Their jewelry designs have made them famous for they have many
jewelry pieces acquired by the rich and famous, desired by the London social
elite, sought after by Parisian couture designers, and now has captured the
hearts of Americans. Marked: “B & W”. The Butler and Wilson partnership broke up
in the 1990’s with Simon Wilson retaining the Butler & Wilson name. Today,
Butler & Wilson has two prestigious stores in London, England selling bracelets,
earrings, brooches/pins, necklaces, hair clips, bags, wallets, watches, charm
bracelets, and bridal gift ideas.

Through the years, Nicky Butler has created costume jewelry collections for
top fashion designers including Georgio Armani and Yves St. Laurent and has also
provided jewelry pieces for the late Diane, Princess of Wales. Nicky Butler’s
jewelry designs are now famous throughout the world. His jewelry designs and
creations, through the years, have been acquired by the rich and famous, desired
by the London social elite, sought after by Parisian couture designers and has
captured the hearts of Americans.

Since the 1990’s, and under his own name, Nicky Butler, has designed and
manufactured costume jewelry of sterling silver, gold tone and silver tone
metals with crystals and gemstones that are bezel or prong set in metal. His
jewelry, pendants, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pins/brooches, chains, and
rings has a global flair that has a decidedly multi-cultural feel combining
multiple gemstones with antique-style settings and other unique finishes, for a
look that is hard to duplicate let alone hard to find anywhere else.

In 2005, you will find many of his jewelry pieces sold exclusively on the
internet – HSN. Other jewelry pieces are being auctioned on eBay. His costume
jewelry pieces are marked: “Nicky Butler“, “N.B.” or “Nicky Butler in a circle
with the N& B letters transposed (on top of each other) in the center of the
circle”, “Nicky Butler. ..Made in France“, “Made in England ..NB“, “925 India
NB“. Nicky Butler’s jewelry designs are now famous throughout the world.

C & H: 1898 – 1923


C & H Co. stands for the Chapin & Hollister Company that was
founded by William P. Chapin and Frederick R. Hollister in 1898, Providence, RI.
The company produced gold and silver chains, cutlery and jewelry and ceased operations
in 1923.

CADORO OR HOLLYWOOD STARS: 1945 – 1980s


Cadoro Inc. NY was founded by Actor Steve Brody and Dan Staneskieu
in 1945. The jewelry was custom designed, highly fashionable, hand crafted using
brush-gold toned and silver toned metals, beautiful rhinestones and glass crystals
from all over the world, seed pearls and stones from the ocean depths. The stones
were prong set like a set of dog’s teeth that firmly griped the stones. The jewelry
made included 3-dimensional fish, animals and Russian inspired jewelry made in brushed
goldtone metal. Mark: “CADORO”, and “CADORO with a copyright symbol” 1955 – 1980s.
Dan died in the 1960s and the company ceased operations in 1970. Cadoro jewelry
is rare and hard to find.

CAPRI: 1950 – 1977


Mark: “Capri” in script with a copyright symbol” 1950-1977

CARL-ART: 1937 – Late 1980’s

The Carl-Art Inc. company was founded in Providence, RI in 1937 producing
jewelry with Sterling Silver and Gold Filled metal base. Their jewelry lines
included necklaces and Sautoir (a long, free flowing necklace choker), watch,
key and vest chains, Waldemar and Serpentine chains, earrings (screw back),
charms, brooches, pendants, and crosses. Most of the Carl-Art jewelry pieces are
small sterling silver pieces and novelty items and 14K gold chains and charms.
In their jewelry, Carl-Art used faceted clear and colored crystals and
rhinestones, cultured pearls, faux moonstones, amethyst, garnet, hematite, and
turquoise stones that were bezel or prong set in the sterling silver and gold
filled metal base. Mark: Sterling Silver, CA with an arrow going through the
letters”, “Sterling Silver in 12K Gold, Pat.#, CA with an arrow going through
the letters”, “14K, CA with an arrow going through the letters”, “1/20 12K GF,
CA with an arrow going through the letters”, and “Sterling Silver plated in 12K
Gold, Pat.#, CA with an arrow going through the letters”. The company ceased
operations in the late 1980’s.

CARNEGIE, HATTIE

:
1900s – 1970s

Hattie Carnegie (original last name was Kanengeister) was born
in Vienna, Austria in 1886 and emigrated to the U.S.A. with her family at the age
of 6. In the early 1900’s, she and Rose Roth opened several dress and hat shops
in New York City. She designed the hats while Roth sewed the dresses. Her success
in retail led to her founding her own company, Hattie Carnegie, Inc., whereby, the
company designed and manufactured the jewelry that complimented the dresses.

Carnegie’s jewelry designs were her own creations; she did not
copy the fine jewelry trends appearing on the market, and her jewelry was always
expensive. The movie star Joan Crawford bought and wore much of the Carnegie jewelry.
The jewelry consisted of flux pearls, plastic stones and beads, rhinestones and
other materials with enamel and gold plated and silver plated metals. Her designs
were classified as whimsical and included Oriental pieces, tremblers or noddlers,
and figurals which are highly collectible. Other designers working for Hattie Carnegie
include Norman Norell, Peggy Tregere, and Claire Mc Cardell. Mark: “HC’ or “HAC”
in a diamond or “Carnegie”, or “Hattie Carnegie”. The Carnegie company was sold
to Larry Josephs after her death in 1956 and closed in the 1970s.

CAROLEE: 1972 – Present


Carolee Friedlander, a trained architect and now President and
CEO of Carolee Designs, Inc., Greenwich, CT founded her Carolee line of costume
jewelry in 1972. It was a kitchen hobby enterprise with the starting to bead necklaces
to nurture her creativity. Before long, she was casting pewter designs and using
flea market glass stones and beads. A Connecticut factory site eventually came to
pass that employed 300 people. The company is now an international recognized jewelry
and accessories design company. Carolee is considered a trendsetter in both design
and marketing in costume jewelry and fashion accessories. Designs for the Duke of
Windsor for his wife was called Carolee’s Estate Collection, “Duchess of Windsor”.
The jewelry consists of simulated onyx, emerald, ruby, lapis etc. stones, clear
and colored rhinestones, simulated white and colored pearls in gold plated and silvertone
base metals. Her jewelry can be an added accessory on a dress. She also designs
Fun Jewelry that can be worn during the day and for night time. Mark: “Duchess of
Windsor”, “CAROLEE with a copyright symbol”. The jewelry pieces are highly sought
after. Carolee Friedlander supports Breast Cancer Research and has designed a sterling
silver charm with words: Faith, Hope, & Courage on the inside of the charm that
can be worn on pearls, silver chains or leather. Carolee jewelry is sold through
fine department and specialty stores. The company is still in business and the
jewelry is manufactured in over 20 countries including the USA, China, Korea and
the United Kingdom.

CASTLECLIFF OR CASTLEMARK:
1937 – 1977

Castlecliff originated as Castlemark by Clifford Furst and
Joseph Bobley in 1937 but the jewelry was first marked in 1941 with the Castlecliff
name and line introduced in 1945. The chief designer was William Markle who created
bold, intricate well constructed Gothic, Renaissance and Art Deco designs, 3-dimensional,
and tremblers on springs using gold plated, sterling silver, and silver plated
base metals on the jewelry. The pieces contained faux pearls, faceted color rhinestones,
lapis, jade, and carnelian plastic and ceramic stones. Mark: “Castlemark”, “Cassandra”
in 1957, “Castlecliff alone or with copyright symbol” after 1955, “Anne Klein
for Castlecliff” in 1977. The company ceased business in 1977. In 1980, the company
was reopened and taken over by Lucien Piccard Industries-Pierre Cardin. The jewelry
is now tagged “Castlecliff Jewelry Div. of Lucien Piccard”.

CATHE: 1961 – Present


Cathe Jewels Inc. was founded in Torrence, CA in 1961. Prong
set rhinestones and colored glass stones, aurora borealis stones, faux pearls
in gold plated metal art modern of the 1950s and 1960s. Cathe also designed jelly
bellies with clear Lucite stones. Mark: “Cathe with a lozenge highlighted after
the name” in script.

CELBRITY:


Mark: “Celebrity”, “Celebrity Gems”, “Celebrity, N.Y. with or without a copyright
symbol”.

CHRISLEE: 1961 – Present

The Chrislee Company was founded in 1961. It was founded by Lloyd Crisfield who
is still the CEO. The jewelry was sold to department stores and boutiques with
necklaces selling for $60 to $100.

CHRISTIAN DIOR: 1930 – Present (Dior Product Lines are now produced by Kramer
NY)

Christian Dior, born in 1905, and starting in 1930, became a French Designer of
clothing in several different fashion houses. He opened his own “House of Dior”,
Paris, France in 1947 selling clothing and fashion designer gold plated metal
jewelry containing imitation precious stones including rhinestones, (that dazzled
like diamonds), rubies, sapphires and faux pearls. Dior was the first designer
to use the aurora borealis rhinestones. He opened several other Parisian fashion
houses; one, “Dior Costume Jewelry” in Germany in 1948. His costume jewelry was
manufactured by various jewelry houses including the Henkel and Gross in Germany
in 1955, Maier, and Schreiner. Dior died in 1957 but had, in 1950, licensed his
U.S. production to Kramer NY, who was awarded the use of the Dior name to be put
on the Dior jewelry lines that they produced. Marks used: “Christian Dior”, “Dior
West Germany (year manufactured)”, “Christian Dior by Kramer”, 1950-1957, “Chr.
Dior with a copyright symbol” 1952-present, “CHRISTIAN DIOR BOUTIQUE GERMANY”,
1952-present, and “Christian Dior in an oval” 1958 to present. Yves St. Laurent,
an apprentice of Dior, continued to design the jewelry after the death of Dior
which is now produced by Kramer of New York and seen in boutiques today.

CINER: 1892 – Present


Ciner Manufacturing Company NY was founded by Emanuel Ciner who opened his own
fine jewelry store in Manhattan, NY in 1892 after having emigrated to the U.S.
from Austria in 1886. The company produced expensive, high quality, well designed,
timeless and fashionable fine jewelry including wedding and engagement rings.
In 1931, Ciner began mass producing a broad range of costume jewelry that resembled
fine jewelry and marketed his products through select high-priced stores. Each
bead, stone and pearl was hand- strung and hand-knotted. The metals used were
18k gold, platinum, sterling and white metal. Ciner’s fashionable evening jewelry
had the look of luxury for the rich and famous. With the use of smaller colored
stones, Swarovski rhinestones that glisten like diamonds, and imitation gemstones,
glass cabochons, and simulated pearls, the pieces produced imitated the real jewels.
The Ciner Company’s logo was “The Tiffany of Costume Jewelry”. Generations of
family members followed Emanuel in designing the jewelry lines. Smaller color
stones than the normal were used, creating, in the jewelry produced, the look
of fine jewelry.

The use of pearls, especially made for Ciner by Japanese artisans, are glass-based
beads that have been coated many times with a luminescent finish that gives the
pearls the look of cultured pearls. Early Ciner pieces of jewelry produced before
World War II were frequently not marked. Mark: “CINER with or without a copyright
symbol”. Ciner, is still in business and continues to use the finest materials
and workmanship in their jewelry lines of more than 7,000 pieces leaning toward
modern designs.

CINI: 1920s – Present


Guglielmo Cini, a jewelry maker, was born in Florence, Italy and in 1922, at the
age of 17, emigrated to the U.S. settling in Boston, MA and later moved to Laguna
Beach, CA where he set up shop. He was consider a Florentine Artesian and Master
Craftsman. Cini’s along with designer Felipe Mendosa possessed great skills in
workmanship and imaginative designs, in the beginning, creating “the silver look”
and later they incorporated facet colored rhinestones into their designs. His
and designer Felipe Mendosa crafting skills brought forth beautiful costume jewelry
pieces that were hand crafted, using sterling silver and silver plating with gold
metal which achieved a higher quality look. Mark: “Guglielmo Sterling” in a rectangle
box, 1920s to present, STERLING BY CINI with a copyright symbol” in a rectangle
box, and “Sterling Cini with a copyright symbol”. In 1979, Cini died. The company
continued to make Cini jewelry with Felipe Mendosa as designer. The Cini jewelry
is still made today. (See Cini Jewelry.com)

CLAUDETTE: 1945 – Mid-1950s

Claudette jewelry was made by Premier Jewelry Co., Inc. NY in 1945 and believed
to have gone out of business in the mid 1950s. Mark: “Claudette” and “Claudette
with a copyright symbol”. Some of the jewelry produced contained colored Lucite
stones.

COCO CHANEL OR CHANEL: 1912 – Present


Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, milliner and hat designer, started
Chanel Modes in Paris, France as a dress salon carrying women’s accessories including
shoes, hats, handbags, and jewelry with her start in jewelry designing of earrings,
ropes, and chains. She helped design clothes and accessories that set the world
fashions in the twenties along with her gold and bead chains, charm bracelets
and jeweled belts often combining junk jewelry with real jewels on plain garments.
Chanel jewelry featured large stones, classical inspiration and an emphasis on
authenticity. She used faux pearls, clear and color rhinestones, and multi-color
synthetic stones in her designs. Coco designed and produced bold, massive jewelry
pieces until World War II, having closed her business in Paris in 1939 because
of the wars fought in Europe. In 1954, she came out of retirement and produced
jewelry until her death in 1971. In her later years, her designs included multi-colored
glass stones, faux pearls, and rhinestones pieces of jewelry in necklaces, bracelets,
pins/broaches, pendants and earrings using gold plated metal that was superior
in quality and workmanship to the early years. These pieces of jewelry are highly
collectible. Many of her early pieces were not signed. Mark: “CHANEL”. The Chanel
Company, under the supervision of Karl Lagerfield, is still producing costume
jewelry today.

NOTE: “Chanel” in script form is the mark of the Chanel Novelty
Co. NY which has since changed its name to Reinad Novelty Co. NY and was never
associated with Coco Chanel.

COPPOLE E TOPPO: 1960 – 1970s (Italy)


Lyda Coppola founded the Coppola e Toppo (her married name)
Company in Italy in 1946 after designing jewelry for Schiaparelli earlier in her
career. She created jewelry pieces of dramatic faceted glass rhinestones and crystals,
plastic beads, faux pearls, and imitation seed pearls on gold plated metal or
strung on brass wire tightly wrapped and clustered together and included ornamental
clasps. Mark: “Made in Italy By Coppola e Toppo” and on each earring, a cutout
star is pierced into the clip metal. The company ceased production in the 1970s.

CORO/COROCRAFT/FRANCOIS/VENDOME: 1901- Present (Still Operates
in Canada)


Emanuel Cohn and Gerard Rosenberg opened a small shop in New York
selling jewelry and personal accessories, later becoming known as “Coro”. The
name Coro incorporates the first two letters of each partner’s name. Mark, in
the beginning: “CR”. By the mid 1920’s, the Coro company was the largest manufacturer
of costume jewelry and had a work force of over 2,000. The company produced a
broad range of designs and an immense volume of jewelry at all price levels. Some
pins sold in five-and-dime stores for as low as 50 cents and some pins sold as
high as $100 in speciality stores. Some of the rhinestone studded Coro jewelry
can be compare with the very best produced by other costume jewelry companies.
The well designed pieces of the 1930s-1950s including the duettes and figurals
with a clear Lucite central stone known as “jelly belly”, the enameled tremblers,
the whimsical designs by Adolph Katz, and the Mexican sterling pieces are highly
collectible. Marks: some signed “Corocraft”, some signed ” Francois” (this mark
was used to market the higher end line of costume jewelry to the wealthier clients
until World War II), most signed “Vendome” (a jewelry line starting in 1944 which
was to be their highest line of costume jewelry), “Coro”, used since 1919, some
with year produced, ” Coro Craft” since 1937 used for higher end pieces, “Corocraft”
used after WWII, “Pegasus” used after WWII and “Coro Originals” to name a few
of a long list of Coro markings. Coro ceased production in the U.S. in 1979. Coro
Inc. in Canada is still in operation today.


CRAFT: 1948 – Present


The Craftsman Company, producing Craft jewelry, was owned by
Gene and Ron Verri and was founded in 1949. The company name was changed to Sample
Art Company and was known for color combinations and bold designs. They produced
jewelry for Kenneth J. Lane, Kramer, Capri, Tancer, and Cadoro. The jewelry marked:
“Craft” also appeared on cards marked “Gemelll”.

CRISLU: 1961 – Present


The Crislu Company, a premier designer and manufacturer of
jewelry was established in 1961 in the U.S. The jewelry is known for its unsurpassed
style and quality of the cubic zirconia products of today. Because the stones
sparkle like diamonds, the jewelry pieces are sought after by the rich and famous
throughout the world. The company prides itself on personal attention to costumer
service. Mark” Crislu”. The company is presently in business.

CURTIS, KAREN: Unknown – Present


Karen Curtis has worked as a fashion designer in New York City
for several years and is a jewelry designer and an authority of other mediums
to include sculpture, textile, fashions, and metal smelting after having studied
in New York City and Florence, Italy. Curtis’ costume jewelry designs have superior
creativity and her use of crystals brings beauty and brilliance to the gems incorporated
into her designs. Each piece of jewelry is delicately made with special uniqueness
creating elegance and glamour using Swarovski rhinestones and crystals with sterling
silver and gold filled metal bases, She has produced jewelry pieces using rare
vintage crystals on one-of-a-kind or limited edition items. Signature Tag Mark:
“Karen Curtis”. Her jewelry is sold at the Saks 5th Avenue Stores.



 



Vintage Costume Jewelry Makers And Designers

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